Enemies of Liberty are ruthless. To own your Liberty, you'd better come harder than your enemies..

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Blade work


I was asked to comment on an article at NoNonsenseFighting.com titled "Lies about knife fighting".  I read it, and find a lot in the article with which I can agree.  Some falls into the realm of "Different strokes for different folks."  A few points I disagree with absolutely.  I'll start with the statement with which I disagree most: Item #14 "Where I really hit the roof on this mindset is when I see someone who comes from a empty hand fighting system attempt to "fight" an armed opponent in the same way that he would an unarmed opponent."

My martial skillset is founded upon Aiki, with Vo Bihn Dihn and Brazilian Ju-Jutsu (GJJ specifically) and in my world every attack is handled the same whether the attacker is armed or not.  A straight punch at the head is handled precisely the same as a straight thrust toward the head with a knife or brick: Control the arm by deflecting off the line of attack, close the gap to contact, and execute a technique that crushes the attackers physiology, and thus his ability to continue the attack.

Sometimes you succeed in executing a counter that ends the conflict right away.  Usually, you succeed in avoiding a killing blow while delivering some level of injury, or maybe you simply succeed in taking his balance, opening him to an effective counter.

I have added a few links below to columns I have written on blade work, which will help flesh out my two cents.  But I'll re-cap a bit here.

In my world a blade is usually an offensive weapon.  Whether used in offense or defense, its value lies in helping you kill the enemy faster than is usually possible with empty hands - you can hit something vital and get him to bleed out.  If you get the throat, you can keep him pretty silent as he begins the voyage to the other side.  But most situations in which I have been attacked by a man with a knife, I chose to leave my blade sheathed so I can have both hands empty.  I want to control his knife hand, get close, and then break his physiology in some manner that renders his blade irrelevant.

That said, my favorite defensive strategy regarding a knife fight is to be somewhere else.  If I must to face a guy with a knife who wants to kill me, the best weapon is a Chevy, at full speed.  Next - shoot that SOB. 

One reality is universal: Even if you "win" a fight with blades, you will be cut, and you may well die as a result.  You'd better have a medic close by.

As to type of blades: I have a Cold Steel folder with me at all times.  If I am in a fight and manage to survive his first attack, close the gap and tangle him up, I can deploy my folder with one hand and end it swiftly.  If I know I may be headed to a fight that will require a blade, I want a Cold Steel Tanto or KA-BAR tanto.  I prefer Cold Steel, because it has a pointed pommel that can be used as an effective weapon on a reverse strike. 

I am not a fan of double edged fighting blades, but that is a personal preference.  I do own a Gerber Mk II that I am very fond of, though I consider it a backup.  Double-edged blades are inherently weaker than a single edge with a stiff, thick backbone - a Cold Steel will break a double-edge design with a good block.

It boils down to this: If you are facing an enemy and he has a blade, you will be cut, you will be damaged, but your focus should be the same as in any fight - worry less about living through the fight and make it your highest priority to kill him.  That simple mindset will improve your odds of winning - and "winning" is not always defined as "living".

Here are a few of my past knife columns:

Blades One
Blades Two
Blades Three

I've been considering a DVD, but I am uncertain how much people would benefit.

Kerodin
III

6 comments:

  1. Sam got a recommendation on a good folding knife for self defense?

    Mozart

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    Replies
    1. Cold Steel Voyager 4" blade, tanto point 1/2 serrated, for most guys and gals.

      I have small hands and I prefer the 3" Voyager, which is plenty of knife to do damage. But for several months now I have been carrying the 4" Recon by Cold Steel along with my 3" Voyager. The Recon is growing on me, but I still prefer the Voyager.

      K

      Delete
  2. Outstanding post Sam. Words to live and die by. The Leatherneck Tanto will fall into my hands by friday this week. As far as training with points goes for you, do you have someone you go live with a lot? I have no one in my circle of lazy friends who will let me get close enough to teach them things that could save their life... I have a hanging pvc trainer that I use for keeping my edging degrees pretty well in line and they laugh at me for "playing with toys"... We'll see who laughs last. Any advice on breaking down their fear barrier to get them more warm to learning? Thanks

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    1. I reserve all my live blade training to a dojo with a very select group of practitioners. I would never, ever spar with an amateur with live blades - they do stupid things like fall down on the pointy end. ;) (Amateur is anyone less than 3rd dan black, in a ranked paradigm)

      Even teaching a blade class, I will not allow sparring between students with live edges. Live blades are reserved for techniques only, and blue trainers for sparring.

      In some cases, with select students, I will permit them to use a live blade with me (only with me in a one-on-one scenario) and I make them move at 1/2 speed. The objective is to refine the technique and build it into muscle-memory.

      Good luck trying to find someone you can trust who is willing to train live - most people are too scared. But that helps inform your decision when forming your Fire Team. ;)

      K

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  3. Thank you for this post, it's very informative. The links to previous articles were very helpful.

    I've learned enough from these posts to know that I need some actual training to be effective in a knife engagement. The difference in what you know and what you think you know can get you killed. Sadly, I live in a smaller town where things like Krav are not an option. Can you recommend any training for people in smaller towns at all? I think I have options for an MMA place or boxing here.

    If you are worrying about making a DVD - don't. I'd be happy to buy one from you; just take in to account the PERSEC implications of something like that. Somehow, I doubt that will bother you though.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Range is the most important factor in a fight - keep out of range sufficiently that he must lunge and commit momentum to attack, and then when you are ready, close the gap and get very, very close and stick him with the pointy end of the blade. ;)

      If your only choices are an MMA dojo or a boxing school, go with the MMA. It is likely to be a decent mix of useful techniques. But then "EVERY" time you travel to a larger city, drop into a school and attend at least one of their classes. Most dojos will let you join in for a small fee - usually $20 or so. This will allow you to test what you've been learning at home, and probably add at least a few variations.

      Keep your goals realistic - you don't have the time to invest 20 years. That's ok, because 6 months of Krav or at a decent MMA school will make you far more prepared than your average neighbor and even your average LEO.

      K

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